Ali Ahmed Aslam, the Inventor of Chicken Tikka Masala, Dies

Glasgow, Scotland – The culinary world mourns the passing of Ali Ahmed Aslam, the revered Glasgow restaurateur often associated with the genesis of chicken tikka masala. Mr. Aslam, who founded the iconic Shish Mahal restaurant in 1964, passed away on Monday at the age of 77 due to septic shock and organ failure after a prolonged illness, as confirmed by his son, Asif Ali. His passing marks the end of an era for a figure who played a pivotal role in shaping the landscape of British curry houses.

The Enigmatic Origins of a National Dish

While Ali Ahmed Aslam was widely credited with inventing chicken tikka masala, its true origins are a subject of enduring culinary debate. Much like other significant inventions, the dish is likely the product of simultaneous discovery, an organic evolution driven by the dynamic forces of immigration and evolving British palates in the post-war era. Numerous cooks have laid claim to its creation, with some even asserting its roots in Punjab, India. However, it was Mr. Aslam’s narrative that gained widespread recognition, particularly after an unsuccessful 2009 attempt by Scottish Member of Parliament Mohammad Sarwar to secure European Union recognition for chicken tikka masala as a Glaswegian specialty.

According to family lore, the inspiration for the dish arose from a simple customer request. A local bus driver, finding his chicken tikka too dry and spicy, reportedly asked Mr. Aslam for a saucier, sweeter alternative. In response, Mr. Aslam, affectionately known as “Mr. Ali,” innovatively combined the tandoor-grilled chicken pieces with a quick tomato sauce. Despite the dish’s eventual global fame, his son Asif Ali noted that Mr. Aslam “never really put so much importance on it. He just told people how he made it.”

A Symbol of British Multiculturalism

Chicken tikka masala’s widespread popularity led to its recognition as a true British national dish. In a notable 2001 speech, then-British Foreign Secretary Robin Cook lauded the dish, stating, “Chicken tikka masala is now a true British national dish. Not only because it is the most popular, but because it is a perfect illustration of the way Britain absorbs and adapts external influences.” This sentiment underscored the dish’s symbolic significance, representing Britain’s capacity for cultural integration.

From Humble Beginnings to Culinary Icon

Born on April 1, 1945, into a farming family near Lahore, Pakistan, Ali Ahmed Aslam immigrated to Glasgow in 1959 as a teenager. His early years in Scotland were marked by industriousness; he worked in his uncle’s clothing business by day and cut onions in a local restaurant by night. Driven by ambition, he soon opened Shish Mahal in Glasgow’s West End. He personally mastered the tandoor oven, and with the help of his parents—his mother, Saira Bibi, in the kitchen and his father, Noor Mohammed, managing the dining room—he built a thriving establishment.

In 1969, Mr. Aslam married Kalsoom Akhtar, also from his home village in Pakistan, and together they raised five children in Glasgow. His legacy extends through his wife, Kalsoom Akhtar; his children, Asif Ali, Shaista Ali-Sattar, Rashid Ali, Omar Ali, and Samiya Ali; his brother, Nasim Ahmed; his sisters, Bashiran Bibi and Nazarian Tariq Ali; and 13 grandchildren.

The Enduring Impact of the Curry House

The 1970s witnessed a boom in British curry houses, with chicken tikka masala becoming a staple. By the time Robin Cook delivered his speech in 2001, the number of curry houses in Britain had grown from a few hundred when Shish Mahal opened to thousands, solidifying their status as a quintessential British institution. Mr. Aslam, though not explicitly named in Cook’s speech, became an integral part of this evolving British narrative.

While two of his sons took over Shish Mahal’s ownership in 1994, Mr. Aslam never truly retired. Known for his relentless work ethic, he continued to be actively involved, maintaining his sophisticated personal style with Savile Row suits and driving his white Jaguar to the restaurant. He considered himself a proud Glaswegian and a Scotsman through and through.

Despite its global ubiquity on airplane menus, as a pizza topping, and in grocery stores worldwide, chicken tikka masala has at times faced critiques of inauthenticity. Nevertheless, its pervasive presence and enduring popularity underscore its deep integration into modern culinary culture.

Shish Mahal closed for 48 hours in tribute to Mr. Aslam, and the outpouring of condolences on its Facebook page from a multi-generational fan base highlighted his profound impact on the community. On Tuesday, a public funeral prayer was held at Glasgow Central Mosque, attended by approximately 500 people, a testament to the respect and affection he garnered. More than just a restaurateur, Ali Ahmed Aslam created a welcoming space where generations of Glaswegians felt at home, leaving behind a legacy remembered less for a single famous dish and more for the warmth and hospitality of the man himself.